trends – Signature9 http://198.46.88.49 Lifestyle Intelligence Tue, 07 Jun 2011 12:07:10 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.3.4 Why EDITD’s Social Fashion Trend Monitoring Is the Next Big Thing http://198.46.88.49/style/fashion/why-editds-social-fashion-trend-monitoring-is-the-next-big-thing http://198.46.88.49/style/fashion/why-editds-social-fashion-trend-monitoring-is-the-next-big-thing#respond Tue, 07 Jun 2011 11:54:41 +0000 http://198.46.88.49/?p=20148

EDITD tracks trends from inspiration to actual sales

EDITD, a London based startup, has raised $1.6 million from the same VC firm that invested in fashion success stories like Net-a-Porter and ASOS to do something substantially different in fashion trend monitoring. {TechCrunch Europe}

Fashion trend forecasting is a big business; the Telegraph estimates that it’s $36 billion big, in fact. For the last few years though, it’s been a market dominated by two major players. A quick search will turn up conversations from people who’ve worked with both debating which has the easier interface or better image archive, but it’s typically the details that differentiate the sites.

WGSN made waves by moving trend forecasting from books to online reports and briefings: an early version of fashion in “the cloud,” if you will. That shift made the two brothers who founded the company millionaires when they sold the company for £140 million in 2005 – roughly $245 million at historical exchange rates. If you’re wondering what makes the company, who many outside of the  fashion and retail industry have never heard of, worth so much, it’s probably the fact that upwards of 30,000 business pay $30,000 per year for access to WGSN’s photos, reports and forecasts. Stylesight has emerged as a lower priced alternative, but essentially offers very similar services.

Which is obviously serving a market need, but aside from changes to the interface to accommodate growing volumes of information, not much has changed since WGSN first launched in 1997 even though the rest of the industry has.

“Digital subscription services are the holy grail both in business to business and consumer publishing, but why does the fashion industry, which is built on its own creativity, pay considerable annual sums for ‘forecasting’, which is not data-driven or scientifically proven?” the author of the Telegraph article asks.

Enter EDITD. That’s exactly what the startup is attempting to do: back up the intuition with data. Specifically, they’re backing it up with social media data, which has the potential to provide a much larger sample size than even WGSN’s 400-strong staff can provide.

EDITD shows how products move at an individual level through pricing and aggregated size availability data

Having gotten a walkthrough of the site, the data and the way it’s presented is frankly amazing. While it’s more about historical data, it offers it at such a granular, precise level that it fills a gap that’s just not possible with even the most expansive photo archive or trade show coverage.

“But how does trend forecasting actually work and how can it provide value to the companies subscribing?

Isham Sardouk, senior vice president of Trend Forecasting at Stylesight, has experienced life as both a client, when he was designing at Victoria Secrets, and now as a forecaster-in-chief.

“We work 18 months ahead across several markets such as men, women, children and interiors, and our job is to provide food for thought,” he says. “There is a 16 to 18 month lead time with retailers and so the majority of our forecasts are not for the fast track fashion decisions but for the longer term decisions, although we do provide short term forecasts too.” {the Telegraph}

It may not be scientifically proven yet, but EDITD offers the kind of easy to understand, visually engaging data-driven forecasting that has been either completely missing, or too technical to be useful to the people who need it. Ultimately the proof of any trend forecast is in the purchase (consumer purchase, that is).

If you’re a retailer trying to decide if you should take a bet on stripes, EDITD can tell you exactly how fast striped garments sold out, which sizes sold fastest and at what price. It’s based on publicly available information, so there is the limitation of not knowing how many pieces were available in the first place, but even with limitations that’s information above and beyond anything else we’ve seen. Curious to know how people really feel about a particular shade of green that was all over the runways? Get an early idea of positive or negative sentiment as measured through tweets and Facebook likes, and see how that changes over time. Fashion at every level moves much more quickly than it did in the past – there are no longer 2 collections (Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter) but 4 (including pre-fall and resort, where a growing portion of sales happen) when it comes to designer clothing, and fast fashion has become a completely new category.

Then consider that the two industry leaders can offer predictions of what will happen in a year an a half, but nothing around what’s happening right now, in real time, with real data and we’d say EDITD is the company to look to as the next big fashion trend behind the fashion trends.

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Christopher Bailey and Burberry Are Still Too Fashion Forward for Critics http://198.46.88.49/s9/christopher-bailey-and-burberry-are-still-too-fashion-forward-for-critics http://198.46.88.49/s9/christopher-bailey-and-burberry-are-still-too-fashion-forward-for-critics#comments Tue, 22 Feb 2011 21:31:53 +0000 http://198.46.88.49/?p=18616 Last runway season, Christopher Bailey received poor feedback from most critics for his Burberry Spring 2011 show. Editors complained that Bailey’s collection looked too cheap, too passé, too biker and too much like it was created with technology and the Internet in mind. They said the clothes looked like they were purposely seasonless and unimaginative, just so they could be sold immediately online.

A few months ago, we defended Bailey’s collection (after all, at least he made an attempt to take advantage of modern technology and business practices), but for his Fall 2011 Burberry Prorsum show, which took place this week in London, we thought there would be no need for Signature9 to come to Bailey’s defense. The clothes he turned out are overtly fall (Cathy Horyn at The New York Times dinged Bailey for ignoring spring influences in favor of clothes that could be worn right away last season), colorful, 60s-inspired and overall quite charming (love the cow print!). It seems, though, that many fashion critics are still unimpressed by Burberry and still complaining that Bailey’s embrace of technology has left his creativity in the dust.

Booth Moore at the Los Angeles Times said the show was “cute” and that “Bailey was right to keep the focus on outerwear,” but criticized Bailey’s clothes for being too far from the seasonless looks shoppers crave these days, which is funny considering Bailey was criticized last season precisely for being seasonless.

Suzy Menkes at The New York Times said Burberry was thinking too big, writing that “what [Burberry] gained in bombast, the once-quirky line lost in charm, cheek and irony that the designer Christopher Bailey has previously brought to the Burberry Prorsum brand.” She also said, “Burberry has to be careful that its brilliant and forward-looking embrace of the Internet does not leave too much behind — especially that ironic take on tradition, the British countryside and the brand heritage that Mr. Bailey can tweak so well.”

Looks like we need to weigh in again. Lucky for Bailey, though, it seems the general consensus among smaller fashion bloggers is that Burberry’s recent collection was highly impressive, and not just in comparison to the last show. We know we little old bloggers aren’t Anna Wintour or anything, but Fashionista, for instance, called Bailey “a master of the brand he has brought into the 21st century with ease.”

We won’t go on a rant about the importance of digital technology and the urgent need for fashion types to make like Bailey and embrace it already, but we will say this: thank goodness for Christopher Bailey. The show’s coats looked warm and realistic for winter, the tweeds and tights were just what we want to be wearing come fall and there was the perfect amount of bright colors mixed with snowy whites and neutrals – and Bailey’s managed to do this all while catering to the modern need for instant gratification by making the collection available very soon, not months from now like most other brands’ clothes. Bravo, Bailey!

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The Invisible Shoe: If Everyone Jumped http://198.46.88.49/style/shoes/the-invisible-shoe-if-everyone-jumped http://198.46.88.49/style/shoes/the-invisible-shoe-if-everyone-jumped#comments Wed, 02 Feb 2011 20:19:05 +0000 http://198.46.88.49/?p=18208 Nudes and blushes have been a huge trend of late, and we recently discovered, floating around the blogosphere, a photo of a shoe that takes the naked look one step further. You’ve heard of mirrored sunglasses, right? Sao Paulo designer Andreia Chaves apparently designed shoes that are covered with mirrors – called “The Invisible Shoe” – so they blend in with their surroundings. {Jezebel}

Comfortable? Probably not. But ladies, these shoes go with EVERYTHING.

To be fair, one would not actually look naked in this shoe. Rather, one would look as if their feet had entirely disappeared. We absolutely love it, but we do have a few concerns. For one thing, how do the mirrors on these shoes not break when you walk on hard pavement in them? The floating on air look is beyond cool, but shattered glass? Not so much. Plus, these shoes could be too blinding in very bright sunlight. We were also bummed to learn that these shoes have been around for a while, and Chaves’ final collection was planned for February 2010.

Still, word about the “The Invisible Shoe” has been slowly making its way around the Internet, and it isn’t the only funky footwear Chaves came up with in her time. She also created a high heel made with leather and sycamore wood cubes, called the “Form & Texture” shoe, in addition to shoes made with large straps of Velcro. {Yatzer} Both designs look like something Lady Gaga would wear, and we have to appreciate Chaves’ unique vision, but both also look like they’d be quite difficult to actually walk in.

“The Invisible Shoe” seems like the best of concepts related to sci-fi and pale color palettes combined, but do you think anyone wearing them on the streets would look cool or just strange? We’re undecided.

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LED Fronts Create a ‘Party in Your Mouth’: If Everyone Jumped http://198.46.88.49/style/jewelry/led-fronts-create-a-party-in-your-mouth-if-everyone-jumped http://198.46.88.49/style/jewelry/led-fronts-create-a-party-in-your-mouth-if-everyone-jumped#respond Fri, 21 Jan 2011 22:01:12 +0000 http://198.46.88.49/?p=17967   When the Japanese came out with anti-aging goggles, we didn’t really see them catching on as a worldwide trend, but the latest fashion accessory to emerge in Japan may just be the next big thing, especially among celebrities like Marilyn Manson, Method Man and Kanye West.

The New York Times reported this week that multi-colored, glowing LED lights as fronts for teeth are fast becoming a hot commodity in Japan. The LED fronts were originally conceived as an experiment by Japanese designers Motoi Ishibashi and Datio Manabe, but now they have been featured in a commercial for the clothing store Laforet Harajuku.

This type of grill looks best at night or in dark rooms (obviously), and its color can be changed using a wireless computer interface. Interestingly, the designers don’t appear to be selling this new-fangled accessory, but have been hosting workshops to teach others how to build their own LED fronts. Mark our words, it’s only a matter of time before some company decides to send a bunch of light-mouthed people out with advertisements flashing across their teeth.

Our favorite part of this, though, is that Ishibashi and Manabe created a video about their product called “Party in Your Mouth.” We’ll have to regretfully decline the invite, thanks.

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Lil’ Wayne and Natasha Bedingfield’s Odd NYE Looks: If Everyone Jumped http://198.46.88.49/style/lil-wayne-and-natasha-bedingfields-odd-nye-looks-if-everyone-jumped http://198.46.88.49/style/lil-wayne-and-natasha-bedingfields-odd-nye-looks-if-everyone-jumped#respond Tue, 04 Jan 2011 22:35:31 +0000 http://198.46.88.49/?p=17679 Every year on New Year’s Eve tons of celebrities make it out to perform at various venues in cities around the world for the so-called biggest celebration of the year. This year, however, a few stars showed up in looks that managed to provide such a distraction that we hardly paid attention to the performances. And not in a good way. In a WTF way.

First up, Natasha Bedingfield. The famous singer with a pocket full of sunshine was one of the lucky ones chosen to perform on Dick Clark’s New Year’s Rockin’ Eve with Ryan Seacrest, but she came on stage seemingly stuck in an American Pie moment, with her bangs permanently skewed up and to the left. {Glamour} The good news is Natasha’s long-sleeved LBD had the perfect amount of sparkle and her sheer black stockings were right on trend, but let’s hope the Silly Putty plastered bangs look doesn’t take hold like Lady Gaga’s affection for going pantsless did.

Next, Lil’ Wayne. The Young Money/Cash Money star performed for BET’s 106 & Park New Year’s Eve Party broadcast wearing Designer Jeremy Scott’s teddy bear sneakers created for Adidas’ Originals by Originals line {Sole Collector}. We truly appreciate Scott’s vision and creativity, and we especially admire his willingness to push boundaries, but boy do we hope men and women around the world don’t start wearing stuffed animals on their feet. Lil’ Wayne (who could’ve used a pair of SUBS in the back) can pull the look off, and the press Scott has received as a result of the sneakers’ appearance on NYE television has been unbelievable, but something tells us the ordinary guy or gal would just end up looking a little silly in teddy shoes. Scott’s winged Adidas sneakers, on the other hand, are really cool. You should go buy a pair.

Jeremy Scott's Adidas: Not sure about those on the left, no doubt about the style on the right.

We suppose odd, IEJ-worthy looks are a great way for celebrities to get some extra press once the NYE performance hype dies down, so we can’t totally blame Bedingfield and Lil’ Wayne for their off-beat looks. Just don’t go public with any of this, kids. These are two looks you should only try at home.

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If Everyone Jumped: Year-End Roundup of Our Favorite 2010 Oddities http://198.46.88.49/style/if-everyone-jumped-year-end-roundup-of-our-favorite-2010-oddities http://198.46.88.49/style/if-everyone-jumped-year-end-roundup-of-our-favorite-2010-oddities#respond Wed, 29 Dec 2010 21:19:19 +0000 http://198.46.88.49/?p=17536 The past 12 months included fabulous trends, dazzling red carpet moments and stunning product innovation, but 2010 was also a great year for the weird. We’ve featured tons of off-beat trends and odd products in our weekly If Everyone Jumped posts this year, including $3,000 T-shirts from Valentino, glow-in-the-dark sunglasses and candles that smell like fast food. With this the last week of 2010, here is a recap of our top five favorites:

We're not jumping on these trends, but they're still interesting.

5. The Return of the Fanny Pack

Ah, the cyclical nature of fashion can be a fantastic thing when lovable trends are re-invented and made exciting to wear again, but some fads should be left in the past (and by the past, we mean the ‘80s). This year, Rihanna was spotted wearing a fanny pack and Tory Burch even began selling them. Most of the ones we found online carried a hefty price tag, and we never thought Tory Burch would ever be making one, so we’ll see if the hip bag catches back on for good. If it does, then boy does whoever markets that thing deserve a pat on the back.

4. iPhone STD Testing

Researchers in the U.K. announced they were in the process of coming up with a way for young adults to test themselves for STDs by essentially inserting their own urine into their iPhones or other mobile devices. The object is to get the STD rate down by allowing for increased testing privacy. We had to put at least one IEJ topic that gives you the willies on the list.

3. Japanese Anti-Aging Goggles

One of our favorite IEJ trends this year involved brands that were essentially attempting to charge consumers for a product that did basically nothing the average person couldn’t do themselves for free. We thought we’d seen it all in the ant-aging game when British beauty brand Rodial came out with snake bite anti-aging serum, but these goggles claimed to fight wrinkles and lines by holding the skin around your eyes taut. The makers declared that holding the skin in place for an extended amount of time would cause it to stay that way. (Helpful hint: if you believe them, you can hold your skin that way using your own fingers – or a pair of swim goggles that at least you can take to the pool once you realize they don’t work like Botox).

2. Teva Stilettos

The Teva stilettos are meant to be tongue-in-cheek, but they are a fantastic oddity nonetheless. This fall, news spread through the blogosphere of Teva’s partnership with Grey Ant to sell hiking sandal meets New Year’s Eve party shoes. That horrible combination was running for more $300. ‘Nuff said.

1. The Snazzy Napper

The informational video for this thing is definitely in the top 10 most entertaining things we’ve ever seen. The Snuggie’s weird younger sister popped up across the Web this summer, and it is basically a blanket with a hole in it that is supposed to help you sleep in public. A big IEJ trend this year was strange products with huge price tags. The Snazzy Napper (aka the “snazzy way to sleep while you travel”) takes number 1 partly for the fact that it is not insanely expensive. That and it’s sheer WTF genius.

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2010 Fashion: The Year In Review http://198.46.88.49/style/fashion/2010-fashion-the-year-in-review http://198.46.88.49/style/fashion/2010-fashion-the-year-in-review#respond Tue, 14 Dec 2010 18:31:52 +0000 http://198.46.88.49/?p=17182 Style.com’s Year in Style mash-up of all that was seen and heard from the fashion world in 2010 is out, and it includes everything from personal style scene-stealers like Lady Gaga and Anna Dello Russo to digital fashion endeavors and movers and shakers like Terry Richardson and James Franco. The fashion Web site’s review is pretty complete, but we would like to put our two cents in on what was important this year in fashion. Here, we present our take on the year’s hits that Style.com left out or paid too little attention to (and a few fashion misses as well) in Signature9’s 2010 fashion wrap-up.

Alexander McQueen Moves Forward

Goodbye Mr. McQueen, hello Ms. Burton. Long live McQueen.

Style.com covered the passing of Alexander McQueen and the showing of the final collection he designed, but something that was equally important this year was the success of Sarah Burton’s first show as the new designer for the McQueen label. The passing of such a genius creative mind was indeed tragic, and the showing of McQueen’s last collection was a special moment, but Burton’s signal that the brand can honor McQueen’s legacy while moving forward was absolutely stellar.

John Galliano’s Dior Couture Wows

Dior haute couture was in full bloom this year when John Galliano showed his Spring 2011 collection of flower-inspired looks. The imagery and execution of the designs combined with the high, tulip-like hair of the models for a full package display of gorgeousness and perhaps our favorite moment in fashion of 2010.

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Pre-Fall By Any Other Name Would Be Twice As Sweet, Says Michael Kors. Is He Right? http://198.46.88.49/style/fashion/pre-fall-by-any-other-name-would-be-twice-as-sweet-says-michael-kors-is-he-right http://198.46.88.49/style/fashion/pre-fall-by-any-other-name-would-be-twice-as-sweet-says-michael-kors-is-he-right#respond Tue, 07 Dec 2010 00:55:39 +0000 http://198.46.88.49/?p=17159 Late last week, The Cut reported (via Elle) that Designer and Project Runway Judge Michael Kors said no one cares about pre-fall collections because the name “pre-fall” is unappealing, whereas its inter-season counterpart, resort, has become more popular of late because the name “resort” sounds nice.

A dress from Michael Kors' pre-fall 2011 collection

Michael Kors thinks you'd appreciate this dress more if the collection in which it appeared had a different name.

“Everyone knows now that resort is important, but because the name ‘pre-fall’ is so ugly no one wants to acknowledge that these are the clothes you actually put in your closet,” he said at his recent pre-fall presentation.

Kors is certainly correct about that last part. Pre-fall collections typically consist of more commercially appealing looks than the fall/winter runway shows, but more interest is directed toward the latter likely just for this reason – because fall/winter runway collections are edgier and riskier, thus more intriguing.

As for his opinion that pre-fall gets the shaft because of its “ugly” name, Kors may be right that the name is a problem, but it is not simply because pre-fall is “ugly.” Our guess is that the average consumer thinks pre-fall is merely a preview of what is to come in the traditional fall/winter fashion week shows and thus does not realize they are missing anything.

It is also possible that the name pre-fall is not to blame. Resort shows likely get a decent amount of attention, not because the name resort is prettier than pre-fall, but because they belong to a more specific, obvious purpose (beach-going, cruising, etc.) and tend to be very distinctly summer-y compared to typical spring collections. In other words, resort shows give shoppers something that is more clearly missing from spring shows. Plus, U.S. Vogue Editor in Chief Anna Wintour reportedly wanted more resort shows this year {Fashionologie}, and her influence is large enough that she got her wish, which is likely another reason people pay more attention to resort than pre-fall.

So Kors is right that the pre-fall image needs some revamping. A name change may help, but educating consumers on the difference between pre-fall and fall/winter collections (and why they should pay attention to both) would likely be more of a game changer. The average person doesn’t always understand how fashion works simply because a lot of it is never explained.

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Bacon-Flavored Beverages: If Everyone Jumped http://198.46.88.49/food/bacon-flavored-beverages-if-everyone-jumped http://198.46.88.49/food/bacon-flavored-beverages-if-everyone-jumped#respond Tue, 23 Nov 2010 14:09:35 +0000 http://198.46.88.49/?p=16890

It is a unique twist, to say the least

If you love bacon in the morning but want to avoid the unhealthy side effects of eating it for breakfast, you can now enjoy the bacon flavor fat free. How you ask?

Last week, Glamour magazine tweeted that the latest flavored syrup from Torani is bacon, so you can have bacon-flavored coffee or lattes in the morning.

A bottle of the stuff goes for $6.95 on Torani’s Web site, where  it has apparently been sold for a few months now. The site also has maple flavored syrup available, so if you figure out how to drink the combination from a pancake you may be well on your way to having a balanced liquid breakfast. According to Torani’s ½ – 1 oz. of syrup should be used to flavor a 6-8 oz. beverage and they suggest adding bacon flavor to manhattans, milkshakes and bloody marys in addition to coffee. The brand even offers recipes for bacon cocktails, including the Bacon Bourbon Sour, which is made with bacon syrup, lemon juice, bourbon and a garnishing strip of real bacon. {The Consumerist}

Torani claims its bacon-flavored syrup tastes salty, sweet and just like real bacon.

Hey, we didn’t say this was a perfect solution to the delicious but oh-so-unhealthy bacon conundrum. Plus, we haven’t actually tried bacon-flavored syrup, and it may turn out to be one of those things that sounds disgusting but is actually fantastic.

The Glamour staffer who wrote about the syrup did also mention seeing a café in Seattle that was selling bacon lattes, so maybe bacon-flavored drinks are the next Pumpkin Spice latte and will end up making us look foolish for questioning their tastiness. Maybe.

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Latest in Customization: Prada Sunglasses http://198.46.88.49/style/jewelry/latest-in-customization-prada-sunglasses http://198.46.88.49/style/jewelry/latest-in-customization-prada-sunglasses#respond Thu, 18 Nov 2010 21:55:24 +0000 http://198.46.88.49/?p=16797 It wasn’t too long ago that we brought you news of customizable chocolate bars as the latest in a long line of products that you can personalize in this day and age, and now designer sunglasses have been added to the list of items you can make your own.

A new collection of shades from Prada will come complete with tiny letter, number and symbol squares that can be inserted into the sides of the frames where the brand’s logo normally sits. There is a heart, a star, a dollar sign and an exclamation point among other characters, and you can use them in any combination you want, if of course you have the $365 to spend on a pair of these sunglasses. {The Cut}

Sunglass Hut will have them on sale in black, tortoiseshell and white. The earpieces come apart to allow insertion of the personalization characters, but you can choose only two to put in each earpiece at a time. {stylemebad}

What do you think – are customizable shades cool or too teeny bopper? Do you like them but have no interest in paying $365 for something as fragile as sunglasses? We’re not sure what to make of it, but don’t think it will be a big enough hit and pump up Prada’s sales. Let us know your thoughts!

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