Caro appeared on Jessica Simpson’s Price of Beauty and told Simpson that a casting director who told her she had to lose 10 kilos (approximately 22 lbs.) if she wanted to be in the fashion world encouraged her to stop eating. {clip on Jezebel} Reportedly this happened when Caro was in her last year of high school, but she also acknowledged having been anorexic since the age of 13, due in part to a difficult childhood.

On Simpson’s show, Caro claims that no one at the modeling agencies she went to said anything about her weight or appearance.

While it’s a designer’s prerogative to only use models from the segment of society that stays beanpole thin even when eating normally, Caro highlighting the extremes some people go to to achieve similar looks (that aren’t possible for them without disordered eating) as a highly visible “face” of the disorder was a truly bold statement.

Fashion doesn’t cause anorexia – a disorder first diagnosed in the 1800s, long before anyone working in the industry was alive. {Wikipedia} It doesn’t help by creating a system where only the very thin (natural or otherwise) are candidates to be “the girl” brands highlight as beautiful/perfection though. Rather than offering samples in a variety of sizes clothes are pinned, protruding bones are smoothed with airbrushing (sometimes to freakish proportions that mimic skeletal bodies) and then it trickles down from high fashion to online models who are booked even when they are so thin that they can’t fit the smallest available size. So no, it’s not the cause; but when a girl can display such obvious signs of being deathly ill from not eating and not get one comment about it, it’s not helping either.

We hope that Isabelle has finally found peace, and we hope that her death sparks at least one conversation about changes in fashion that can discourage another woman from dying a similar death.

Image compilation via Jezebel

One dress by BCBG has garnered lots of reader response, not for the dress but the woman wearing them. While a few comments are an attack on the model, most focus on Revolve’s decision to use Crandall in the first place. {Styleite}

“This model makes me question the entire company itself. she looks like she’s dying. and from a solely business (not to mention ethical) stand point – she makes the clothes look awful,” one commenter writes.

Naturally thin people exist – Ann Ward, winner of the most recent “high fashion!” America’s Next Top Model, for example is very tall, very thin and eats bacon sandwiches, fried Oreos and other things that you’re likely to see on This Is Why You’re Fat, but has a high metabolism and remains very thin. Her outward appearance isn’t a correlation to healthy or unhealthy eating, it’s just the way she’s built. Annamaria Mirdita, another contestant, was sent home by the judges because they felt her restricted calorie diet was too close to disordered eating to achieve a body type that was not natural for her.

That’s the call that Revolve should have made before booking Crandall in the first place. They responded in the comments with their own statement:

“REVOLVE Team, Los Angeles, CA (Straight/Short)
Hi everyone,Thank you for your concern. We are absolutely aware of the feedback and responses to our modelâ€s weight and it has concerned us as well. We are working closely with both the model and her agent to get her to a healthier size. She wonâ€t be appearing in any of our new product batches or in any of our fashion editorial photos moving forward until the issue is adequately addressed.We appreciate and respect input from our customers and visitors and hope that you find our responses satisfying. We have been attempting to respect the privacy of the model in question while dealing with the issue on our end. We hope you understand.Sincerely,The REVOLVE Team”

Come on – there are young women who are slim and lanky while still (possibly) healthy, but this obviously isn’t it. We find it hard to believe in the sincere concern since, oh, none of this came up until customers started commenting. In one photo where she appears in a gray dress, there are sunken hollows under her eyes (not just bags, which might be from a lack of sleep). In others, the muscles in her forearm appear to be separating from the tissue (muscle atrophy can be a symptom of anorexia), and beyond that, she’s so thin that she doesn’t fit the clothes in certain shots.

There are true medical conditions (other than anorexia/bulimia) where people can’t keep weight on. The Telegraph highlighted one woman who eats 5,000-8,000 calories a day to stay healthy, because of a condition that prevents her from gaining weight and keeps her gaunt. However the type of condition that would give someone the type of emaciated appearance Crandall has outside of an eating disorder, starvation or serious illness, are extremely rare.

When it comes to models though, how exactly do clients calculate what a model is worth?

Elena Greenwell, a model for online retailer Shopbop

Earlier this week, Jezebel published documents from an ongoing lawsuit involving models who claim their former agency was withholding payments. the most interesting part are earning statements where it’s discovered that for all of the prestige that comes with a Vogue editorial, the H&M ad running next to it was probably worth much more for the model. Specifically, it’s revealed that Vogue‘s day rate for models (at least in this case) is a paltry $250, and French Vogue‘s is $125. Don’t feel too bad – campaigns for H&M pay $60,000, J.Crew pays $15,000 for catalog appearances and booking campaigns for luxury brand ad campaigns can range from $35,000 to $172,500 – we’re asusming for more than one campaign.

While the money is obviously in ads, the editorial appearances are seen as a catalyst for launching commercial careers. The assumption being that the models in the commercial campaigns bring in at least as much as they’re paid in sales.

Today, the New York Times claims that online retailers see more value in more “relatable” looking models. While you may be able to relate to Karlie Kloss or Freja Beha Erichsen just fine, online retailers think they’ll influence a wider audience with slightly larger models (size 4, rather than size 0) who is good looking, but not in the “gorgeous, but I’d never be able to look like that” way that runway models can be.

There are enough photoshop disasters from fashion ad campaigns to remind us that the definition of relatable is still incredibly subjective, but Shopbop and Gilt both voice opinions that shoppers don’t want to see impossibly flawless models when shopping.

“We donâ€t want a model to appear intimidating in a way they do in a fashion show,” Gilt’s Alexandra Wilkis Wilson tells the Times.

Steven Reider, a manager at Elite Model Management says online  appearances haven’t “ever made anyone a star on the global playing field of models,” but if the money is made on the more commercial campaigns, does that matter? Bluefly, the only retailer mentioned in the Times’ piece to test the difference between using models and using headless mannequins noticed only a very small increase in sales when using people to promote the items. Customers, they found, placed far more value on being able to zoom in on details and view more detailed photos.

Does this, in fact, support the position of using models as clothes hangers rather than personalities? After all, if an actual clothes hanger brings in the same amount in sales, why bother with the more costly model? We actually think it points more to the need for the return of the 90’s style supermodel who was as much of a draw as the clothes. Beauty companies – perfume makers especially- have found celebrity endorsed products can equal big sales, so there’s obviously some real value in name or face recognition. Magazines – Vogue included, have seen increases in circulation by pushing models off the cover in favor of actresses, musicians and other celebrities. They may not have the recognition of  J.Lo or Beyonce, but wouldn’t models become more relatable if they were allowed to become celebrities in their own right again? Victoria’s Secret has done pretty well business-wise with that line of thought, in spite of the fact that most women buying underwear will probably never be able to relate to walking around wearing a million dollar bra (or contract, for that matter).

Americaâ€s Next Top Model

Among the things she said were that Karl Lagerfeldâ€s acceptance of plus-size models as the photographer for the plus issue of V is phony because he previously denounced full-figured women as irrelevant to fashion, and that plus-size models are not truly becoming a part of fashion just because a few select girls have been able to land a limited number of magazine covers and runway slots.

Fair enough, Whitney. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a plus-size model – or anyone for that matter – calling out fashion leaders for using full-figured girls as a spectacle and declaring plus-size is in when size 0 is still the norm.

Hereâ€s what weâ€re more concerned about. Check out this line she fed The Huffington Post:

“It’s infuriating because we have to be excited, we have to be thrilled that there’s one issue that has girls who eat.”

Not okay, Whitney. We understand that anorexia is a serious issue among many models and that poor health and body image among models is something of concern in the industry. That does not mean that every straight-size model does not eat. Some women are naturally very thin. They do not starve themselves or exercise obsessively or regurgitate everything they eat. That is just how their bodies are naturally formed, and it is beautiful and every bit as real as curves.

Standing up for equal treatment and inclusion for girls who are above a size 2 in the fashion industry is perfectly fine, but there is no need to put down women with those size 0-2 body types while you are doing it.

A fairly recent blog post over at the gloss could not have put this more perfectly. Check it out here. And think twice before declaring another woman unreal or unhealthy based on her body type, no matter what it is.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America/CFDA Foundation, Inc. promotes and supports the cause and others in the industry have partnered with the FTBC initiative like Net-A-Porter, Calvin Klein, Saks, QVC, Elson & Company and the Susan G. Komen for the Cure Foundation.

When we learned about this year’s plans we thought it was an innovative and unique idea for this very significant cause. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2011, September 9-16, 2010 in New York City will kick off and Nine West has joined the relief effort, partnering with Omron, the CFDA, Sony, Marilyn, IMG Models and Elite Model Management in raising funds this year. The interesting part though is not just the awesome Nine West runway show, but  the entire week’s worth of festivities during Fashion Week that the models experience.

“The models will don a limited-edition pair of Runway Relief boots, equipped with an Omron GOSmart Pocket Pedometer, to track each modelâ€s steps as she runs between castings, fittings and fabulous parties throughout the week. For every step she takes, a donation will be made to Fashion Targets Breast Cancer. Nigel Barker will host the program on August 31st with a photo shoot of the participating models in an iconic New York location, and you can catch the live stream on Nine Westâ€s Facebook page or on www.modelinia.com.” {Fashion Pulse Daily}

If you love the boots they will be available to the public on August 31st for $199. Nothing beats great fashion and helping a worthy cause.

An ad soliciting perfect-looking women to model for Doveâ€s next “Real Beauty” campaign appeared on Craigslist last Friday. {The Cut} “Real Beauty” aims to push back against the alleged unrealistic body types often featured in the media by showcasing women with average bodies. At the time the ad was posted, it seemed to have revealed that all Dove actually meant by saying it would feature “real” women was that the ladies would not be professional models. The posting said applicants need not have any scars or tattoos or be too curvy or athletic and must have beautiful arms, legs, hair and faces along with flawless skin.

Now Dove claims the ad was not approved, saying in a statement:

“Unfortunately, this casting notice was not approved by the brand or agency team and did not reflect the spirit of the brand team’s vision. We appreciate that this has been brought to our attention, and we are taking the necessary steps to prevent this from happening in the future. We believe our images demonstrate that real beauty comes in many shapes, sizes, colors and ages and we remain committed to featuring realistic and attainable images of beauty in all our advertising.” {The Cut}

Normally, we would say this is just their good PR response so the company does not lose credibility, but it is odd that Dove would post an ad for models on Craigslist of all places, and some past “Real Beauty” ads have featured women with tattoos.

The bigger issue is actually the name of the campaign. While diversity is sorely needed in fashion and beauty, “Real Beauty” implies another narrow definition of reality. Certainly some models are unhealthily thin, and there are more than a few examples of photos retouched to mask that, or terrible Photoshop examples that push them into a humanly impossible shape; but women who are naturally thin do exist, and are as real as anyone else. We vote for the next Dove “Real Beauty” campaign to feature curvy, athletic AND thin women. For real.

Stone modeled for Calvin Klein in 2007 and has worked two of the brandâ€s runway shows.

“I have a long history with the Calvin Klein brand,” she said. “It was wonderful to work with the house again this year. Itâ€s like being part of a family.” {Styleite}

A black and white close-up of Stoneâ€s face shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggot for Calvin Klein Collection is the latest star in the label’s famous black and white images. Maybe it’s just us, but Stone seems to bear a passing resemblance to former Calvin Klein campaign star Kate Moss in the photo.

“I conceived my fall 2010 collection with a self-aware and assured woman in mind,” Creative Director Francisco Costa told WWD. “For me, Lara was the perfect choice for the new campaign because she is a woman who epitomizes confidence and sensuality.” {Huffington Post}

Male models Simon Ellisdon, AJ, Grayson Vaughan and Eric Anderson appear alongside Stone in some of the ads.

The exclusive deal with Stone is a progressive move on the part of the label. By going with a 27-year-old model who is considered curvier than many of her peers, the label that ironically kicked off the young waif look of the 90s is furthering the effort by some in the fashion industry to cast women rather than size 0 girls who may be at an age where they’re thin not only because of diet or exercise, but because they haven’t finished growing. {The Cut} Their last show featured Stella Tennant, Kirsty Hume and the silver haired Kristen McMenamy, who while still slender and gorgeous, are older than the usual catwalkers who are in their teens.

Stone also replaces Eva Mendes as the face of Calvin Klein jeans, adding to a growing movement among designers and magazine editors towards using models in lieu of celebrities for campaigns and covers.

Heidi Montag posted homemade audition videos and pleaded by tweet for director Michael Bay to consider her for the role after it was announced that Megan Fox wouldn’t return. Well, those pleas fell on deaf ears and blind eyes, but apparently Bay did take the blonde actress suggestion into consideration. Along with Huntington-Whitely, models Sara Wright and Brooklyn Decker were reportedly being considered for the role.

We’re all for the return of models with personality, but the model to actress transition isn’t always a smooth one. Still, we can’t fault Rosie for trying.

It’s not that she’ll be at a loss of exposure with her Victoria’s Secret gig, and a new appointment as one of the faces of Burberry’s new beauty line, but considering Transformers 2 took in $201 million in its first five days, a starring role in a popular franchise will offer a type of mass appeal that even the biggest fashion brands can’t match.

Which in turn means that Huntington-Whiteley will likely be able to command even higher rates for lending her increased exposure to more brands. Any way you spin it, the role is nothing but a win for the English model.

The bitter relationship between Next Model Management and Ford Models continues to get worse. This hostility between both model agencies is not a new one. In fact, since 2009, Ford Models has sued Next Management at least 3 times for wrongful model-poaching, one of which involved the high profile poaching of Kendra Spears by Next Management, who according to Ford Models, still had a contract with them.

Last week, it was Next Management’s turn to do the finger-pointing. From being the accused in previous law suits, the agency now took on the role of the plaintiff as it filed legal papers in the Manhattan Supreme Court, alleging that “Ford, which is no longer owned by the Ford family, has been taken over by Russian nationals who totally ignore the American legal system” through an unlawful “campaign to raid Next’s businesses.” {NY Post}

According to the suit, Ford has poached three of its most profitable models- the Polish born Anna Aleksandra Cywinska and Anna Maria Jagodzinska (a k a Anna J.), as well as Estonian head-turner, Karmen Pedaru. Next Management stated in the suit that the poaching of the aforementioned three models has caused the agency “great financial harm”. The agency is seeking unspecified money damages, including the models’ commissions, and for Ford to “cease and desist acting illegally and improperly by enticing and luring models under written contract and being represented by Next to switch to Ford.”{NY Post}

Above, Kendra Spears on the cover of Cover Magazine

On the other hand, according to the New York Post, Ford Models’ most recent suit against Next Management was directed against both the agency as well as Kendra Spears. Then, Ford stated in the suit that Spears is “one of the shining stars” in the modeling industry and was “signed as a prospect while still a teenager in braces.” Furthermore, “for more than a year, Ford has painstakingly cultivated Spears… [and] taught her how to be an international fashion model.” The suit continues that “incredibly, this is the sixth time in less than a year that Next has wrongfully acquired . . . models and employees under exclusive contract with Ford,” including beauties Agnete Hegelund, Natalia Andrade and Pamela Semmach.

So why the back and forth battle between the two prestigious modeling firms over these models? Personally, we think this is incredible. Is there really such a shortage of models that agencies have to look to competitors’ books even if it means breaching existing contracts? According to the number of reality television programs out there like America’s Next Top Model (which is already casting for its 15th season) and its international editions, this does not seem to be the case.

But seemingly, Next Management and Ford Models do not take this view. Based on their actions, it seems as if both agencies only want a selected group of models who have proven to be financially beneficial, without actually having to go through the effort of grooming and developing these models themselves.

Unfair? Probably. Yet, we understand that the world of fashion is as cut-throat as that.

Fashion houses want the best models who can best represent their brand and often, it is the top few :it” models of the moment who are looked to as the most ideal choices, leaving many other models to catalog modeling and the dreaded “commercial” bookings that don’t get the same level of notoriety as runway and editorial modeling. It’s not shocking that agencies would go to such lengths to secure models of the moment.

Still, we wonder if the law will soon catch up to these agencies for their dubious actions. While we don’t doubt that having a competitor step in on your find is annoying, most people employed in New York are employed at will, meaning they may quit a job or stop working if they choose to without consequence.  Trying to prevent an employee for working for a competitor can be equally challenging, even with contracts.

Not long ago there was serious debate over the rail-thin models allowed to walk the runways at various big name designer fashion shows. The same holds true for magazine covers that feature unrealistic body images that are altered and airbrushed before release.

We are happy to report the tables have turned in a recent publication of the British rag, Healthy. The magazine admits to retouching the model’s physique in their April 2010 issue to give her more curves. Editor Jane Druker ‘fessed up to the digital makeover, reportedly saying the magazine “had to put on half a stone (seven pounds)” after Wladyka allegedly showed up to the shoot looking thinner than she had during the casting process. “There were plenty of clothes that we couldn’t put on her because her bones stuck out too much,” Druker told the source. “She looked beautiful in the face, but really thin and unwell. That’s not a reflection of what we do in our magazine, which is about good health.” {Stylelist}

With the super thin aesthetic spreading to guys we’re thrilled at the turnaround, but wonder if the diverse body type movement is really progressing if models feel the need to be so thin in the first place. While Crystal Renn’s recent appearance in the Chanel resort show was celebrated, many have noticed that her famous curves seem to be shrinking.
As much as some like to trot out health as a reason against featuring larger models, being underweight – particularly if it’s as the result of an eating disorder or poor lifestyle choices, can be equally or more dangerous. But in fashion nearly everything comes in cycles, so hopefully we’ll see a return to the 90s supermodels who dominated media with bodies that were thin, but not underweight or starved into the exact same body type. At least it beats the photo butchery in those infamous Ralph Lauren ads.

What do you think? Is photoshopping models to appear larger a step in the right direction, or a move that won’t matter?