Alexander McQueen Moves Forward

Goodbye Mr. McQueen, hello Ms. Burton. Long live McQueen.

Style.com covered the passing of Alexander McQueen and the showing of the final collection he designed, but something that was equally important this year was the success of Sarah Burtonâ€s first show as the new designer for the McQueen label. The passing of such a genius creative mind was indeed tragic, and the showing of McQueenâ€s last collection was a special moment, but Burtonâ€s signal that the brand can honor McQueenâ€s legacy while moving forward was absolutely stellar.

John Gallianoâ€s Dior Couture Wows

Dior haute couture was in full bloom this year when John Galliano showed his Spring 2011 collection of flower-inspired looks. The imagery and execution of the designs combined with the high, tulip-like hair of the models for a full package display of gorgeousness and perhaps our favorite moment in fashion of 2010.

“McQ will become our responsibility alongside the core Alexander McQueen label, allowing us to share ideas and knowledge, expand the business and grow the already iconic brand,” President and CEO of Alexander McQueen Jonathan Akeroyd told WWD. “Over the past five years, McQ has established itself internationally with its young, renegade but always signature McQueen style and we are ready to take it to the next stage in its development.”

Speaking of development at Alexander McQueen, the label is enjoying wild success of late, as the highly anticipated first womenswear collection by newly appointed creative director Sarah Burton debuted with astounding praise from critics in Paris this month. Burton replaced Lee Alexander McQueen at the helm following his death earlier this year.

The general consensus among critics is that Burtonâ€s first collection was the perfect balance of respecting McQueenâ€s vision and adding personal, more feminine touches to advance the brand.

Hilary Alexander at the Telegraph said the collection included “elaborately-beautiful pieces which maintained the spirit of McQueen’s legacy, whilst injecting a new atmosphere of ethereal bohemian romance,” while Cathy Horyn at The New York Times said, “some references to the McQueen craft and drama are necessarily, but her choices reflected a gradual transition.”

At left, the closing look from Sarah Burton's first solo collection at Alexander Mc Queen. At right, designer Sarah Burton

Booth Moore at the Los Angeles Times noted that Burtonâ€s collection seemed more wearable than the typical McQueen line. He credited that to her status as a woman, saying the clothes, “didn’t have the tortured genius of the namesake designer … But the clothes may have been better for it.” He added that even though much of Burtonâ€s collection was typical McQueen, “Burton banished McQueen’s famously restrictive neckpieces, headdresses and hobbling shoes with a woman’s touch.”

What do you think of the collection? Perfect balance of McQueen and Burton, or would you have liked to see something else?

By now, most people are aware of the sad, untimely death of Alexander McQueen. When the Gucci Group, the parent company of the Alexander McQueen label, formally announced that the brand would continue much of the speculation turned to which designer would have the tailoring chops and creative sensibilities to carry the label forward.

Many of the people commenting on various blogs and websites tossed out Olivier Theysken’s name, but the speculation grew loudest around Gareth Pugh, whose striking, sometimes gothic designs share some of the elegant macabre sensibilities of McQueen’s designs. But that wasn’t the only element that inspired such wonder at McQueen’s pieces. There’s the impeccable Savile Row tailoring and unique prints among other things, so when Pugh denied the rumors of being considered as a replacement it wasn’t too much of a surprise.

Today, there are reports that Sarah Burton, who was often mentioned as being McQueen’s creative right hand, will soon be named Creative Director of Alexander McQueen. {WWD}

While her name sometimes made it into previous conversations on the subject, many people won’t be familiar with her name, but she could prove to be the smartest choice. Formerly head of womenswear for the label, Burton is a graduate of Central St. Martin’s (McQueen’s alma mater), and most important, worked with the designer for more than 10 years which is nearly all of McQueen’s professional career.

We mentioned in an earlier piece that McQueen’s passing didn’t have to mean the demise of the company if the Gucci Group followed examples set by the houses of Dior and Versace, which both maintained their influence after the unexpected deaths of strong head designers. In the case of Dior, his successor Yves Saint-Laurent not only continued the Dior legacy, but was successful in creating his own.

Only time will tell what Burton’s appointment will mean for the label, but her work on completing McQueen’s final collection after his death won critical acclaim. In a statement, Burton said that “creation of modern, beautifully crafted clothes was at the heart of Lee’s vision. I intend to stay true to his legacy.”