Alexander McQueen Moves Forward

Goodbye Mr. McQueen, hello Ms. Burton. Long live McQueen.

Style.com covered the passing of Alexander McQueen and the showing of the final collection he designed, but something that was equally important this year was the success of Sarah Burtonâ€s first show as the new designer for the McQueen label. The passing of such a genius creative mind was indeed tragic, and the showing of McQueenâ€s last collection was a special moment, but Burtonâ€s signal that the brand can honor McQueenâ€s legacy while moving forward was absolutely stellar.

John Gallianoâ€s Dior Couture Wows

Dior haute couture was in full bloom this year when John Galliano showed his Spring 2011 collection of flower-inspired looks. The imagery and execution of the designs combined with the high, tulip-like hair of the models for a full package display of gorgeousness and perhaps our favorite moment in fashion of 2010.

This week, it was reported that Jean Paul Gaultierâ€s Spring 2011 runway show invitations promised a collection that would “explore the contrast between XXS and XXL.” The Gossip Lead Singer Beth Ditto, who is a reported size 26, opened the show, which also included size 10 Crystal Renn, who has become a Gaultier favorite over the past few years. {Fashionista}

The Renn we have seen lately is as gorgeous as ever, but debatable in terms of actually being full figured outside of the fashion world. Letâ€s put that aside though, since models who are anything but size 0 are still a rarity on the runway.

Fashionista points out that few critics mentioned the inclusion of Renn and Ditto in the show. Crystal Renn walked Gaultier’s runway years ago when she was heavier, and the designer has had a diverse cast of models. Variety isn’t anything new for the designer, but we think Gaultier himself should have followed the critics’ example.

By announcing in advance of the show, on the invitation, that everything from XXS to XXL will be included – as if it were some sort of novelty or main feature of the event – Gaultier only furthers the idea that bigger women are more spectacle/trend du jour than a real part of fashion. Because if it were completely normal to see women in a range of sizes in any given runway show, no one would mention it anywhere at all.

Since size 0 models are the current norm, perhaps it’s a necessary ploy to inform plus sized shoppers that Gaultier offers designer fashion options beyond a size 10.

If the designerâ€s goal was to make a statement about the widespread use of size 0 models exclusively, he would have done better to just put a size 26 model and a size 10 model in his show and shut up about it.  We applaud the action, but if more designers let women in a wider range of sizes walk the runway without saying a word of it, it could be the true start of a new norm.

In recent years, among rising obesity numbers in the US and several other countries, fashion has cloaked its fear of fat in faux concerns for the health of a nation. Beth Ditto, the plus size lead singer for The Gossip recently commented on the assumption that skinny equals healthy.

“I’m not an unhealthy person and I feel like one of the most tiring parts of being fat and being proud of it is… you do a lot of proving yourself all the time.

“It’s really interesting to me that people will look at a thin person and go, ‘That’s a healthy person’. I want to go, ‘Come open my refrigerator and look and then let’s talk about what you think is so bad’.

“To be thin and to stay really thin, sometimes… some people literally do coke all the time. Some people smoke cigarettes instead of eating. That’s crazy. But that’s ‘okay’ because you look healthier.” {Contact Music via Jezebel}

Hear, hear! For one, when did fashion magazines decide to compete with Fitness or Health? Fashion magazines are there to promote fashion, no? We can’t find a single instance of a doctor prescribing a pair of Louboutins or trip to Marc Jacobs  to treat any kind of ailment. Judging health based on appearance isn’t always easy, even for professionals. That’s why doctors conduct tests, to assess things like blood pressure and cholesterol levels that can’t be determined from a quick once over. Sure, overeating and not exercising are generally unhealthy. But a thin person with a high metabolism can be just as guilty of these unhealthy habits as an overweight person, in spite of the fact that they don’t outwardly show the effects through excess weight. They can also suffer similar health problems without ever appearing “unhealthy.” Heart disease, high blood pressure, diabetes and all kinds of potentially deadly health problems aren’t reserved exclusively for people who are overweight.

As Ditto mentioned, there are plenty of unhealthy things like drugs and smoking that can cause a person to stay thin. Certainly, carrying a large amount of excess weight could be the result of unhealthy behaviors like poor dietary choices or lack of exercise. It doesn’t mean that the star with the coke problem is in any better shape than a heavier person because she maintains a low weight. A naturally thin person could be healthier than someone of the exact same size; among two overweight people, one could be healthy and the other unhealthy, and unless you were a medical professional, you’d never know.

Poor and good health exists at many places along the body size spectrum, but it’s really time for fashion to stop wrapping the fear of fat in fake concern for well-being.

Determined not to be left behind, if one of your new year’s resolutions involves making a more memorable style statement, a new photo tome by the photographer Roxanne Lowit will sure provide lots of food for thought. Published by teNeues, it’s a treasure trove of backstage photos and extravaganzas during Galliano’s reign at Dior Couture, one of the most active idea labs in fashion. Lyrical pictures aside, it is like having a fearless (and tasteful) drag queen as your style advisor, along with choice words and insights from fashion journalist Suzy Menkes, Barney’s Simon Doonan, and Fashion Institute Curator Valerie Steele. Study hard and you might just beat those sloppily dressed divas to the next trend before the ball drops.

Read full story {Hintmag}